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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.